LunaTet

14-Jan-2012 02:53, SONY DSC-W55, 2.8, 6.3mm, 0.025 sec, ISO 200
As if the fact that nearly everything has closed for a week, I was reminded yesterday at midnight, that the lunar new year had begun. I was awoken to foghorns and fireworks outside of my window that went on, non-stop, for 15 minutes. Initially, in that state where you think you might be awake, or perhaps in a dream, watching yourself in a fake reality, I thought that we were getting bombed and an air raid was called. My room even lit up a few times due to the blasts of pyrotechnics. Once I realized the truth of the situation, I must admit, it was funny.

Tet is a knock-off the Chinese New Year. This year it is the year of the dragon. I think the dragon is scary, but have been told it will be great year, as the dragon represents power, wealth, prosperity and royalty.  In preparation for Tet, I watched as locals’ de-shelved grocery stores of their chocolate, junk food, nuts, and booze. I watched a man ring up nearly $300 worth of chips and oil. The shops are filled with red and gold ornaments and incense sticks of all sizes. Every xe om that I see is overloaded with apricot blossom trees, balloons, gift baskets, decorations, and small pieces of deconstructed visual displays. Everyone is cheerful and a bit manic.

06-Jan-2012 23:29, SONY DSC-W55, 5.2, 18.9mm, 0.003 sec, ISO 100
Having no other actual holiday, even this one, technically not their own, either, Tet is the biggest celebration of the entire year.  Flowers are grown all year in the country to purposely be harvested for the elaborate displays in certain cities. Streets and the doors of big corporate buildings are decorated, and little nooks and crannies show up all over the place for photo ops. The best part of all of this? After the first few days, of which are already pretty quiet…everyone leaves to go to the country and those left here get to experience HCMC in a very special way. No traffic, no screaming, no food vendors, no motorbike accidents…just utter cleanliness, quiet, and flowers. It’s pretty amazing.

Today, knowing the city would be empty, I decided to go walk around district one. I walked to the post office to mail some letters. It was only mildly full of older Americans and Japanese tour buses. That was a nice change. Next I decided to walk to Tao Dan Park to see the flower exhibit. I was in HCMC for the first few days of Tet last year, and pleasantly found the festival by accident. It was so amazing, and as I got closer to the park, I felt the excitement of a little kid, and picked up the pace.

21-Jan-2012 23:23, SONY DSC-W55, 2.8, 6.3mm, 0.002 sec, ISO 100
After paying my $1 entrance fee, I was excited to see some new things. There were dragons carved into big boards, hand carved table and chairs, and an umpteenth number of little rock carvings. In fact, the rock carvings and the bonsais overwhelmed all the other displays this year. The giant flowery animals this year, were two dragons adorning the main entrance. Though, the dragon was also the animal created last year…huh. Anyhow, the children’s park returned, this year with a candy and gingerbread theme, accompanied by giant story boards and music blasting at a high decibel, as usual. Also returning to join the veteran rocks and bonsai were the monsters made of edibles.

21-Jan-2012 23:25, SONY DSC-W55, 2.8, 6.3mm, 0.005 sec, ISO 100
21-Jan-2012 23:31, SONY DSC-W55, 7.1, 6.3mm, 0.008 sec, ISO 100
21-Jan-2012 23:45, SONY DSC-W55, 5.2, 18.9mm, 0.008 sec, ISO 250
There were a few bamboo models of palaces, an aquarium with a boat backdrop, a stage for music, life size artsy huts, an obvious love for pepsi, and much of the park was beautifully landscaped with all sorts of colors and styles of flowers. It was really nice to walk around…especially as there were not too many other people there at the time of my visit. Again, it’s a rare feeling to have space in this city.

Next, I trudged down to Nguyen Hue street. I had been surveying this street for the past week or so, as the preparations began. Now finally complete, closed off to traffic, thus open to pedestrians, the street was amazing! The multitude of flowers, and the details of each display were so creative. While I could go on and on, I will let the pictures I took do the talking for themselves.

Also, like the park, it was only mildly busy. Unlike the park, however, it was in the direct sun, and after multiple rounds up and down the street, stopping off on side streets packed with book sellers, I was ready to pass out from the heat, and scooted back to my apartment.

Nguyen Hue St
Nguyen Hue St22-Jan-2012 00:29, SONY DSC-W55, 7.1, 6.3mm, 0.004 sec, ISO 100
22-Jan-2012 00:34, SONY DSC-W55, 7.1, 6.3mm, 0.005 sec, ISO 100
22-Jan-2012 00:34, SONY DSC-W55, 8.0, 7.2mm, 0.006 sec, ISO 100
I will probably go again to both venues at night as they were wired for a sparkling evening display.

Priceless

…this was a post about the crumble that is work. I’ve temporarily removed it as, yes, things are to the point where I’m constantly looking over my shoulder for a silent assailant…so sad…(how’s that for alliteration).

For the RestOfUs

Downtown Christmas11
Downtown Christmas1120-Dec-2011 23:06, SONY DSC-W55, 2.8, 6.3mm, 0.003 sec, ISO 100
 On Christmas day I stayed in my pajamas. I made a fruity breakfast, watched some movies, took a bath, started a long recipe for dinner, and eventually waited for the east and west coast to wake up. I had a lovely skype Christmas with my family in Maine, and I was able to call both of my brothers and their family too. Las Vegas, respectively, at 1am. My parents sent me flowers as a very long distance gift. That was really really thoughtful and made me feel very very loved. 
Merry Christmas from Mom and Dad
Merry Christmas from Mom and Dad16-Dec-2011 03:56, SONY DSC-W55, 2.8, 6.3mm, 0.077 sec, ISO 320

A few more days until the new year. A few more months until the summer. Lots of thoughts of what my next steps will be.

En Masse

Downtown Christmas40
Downtown Christmas4024-Dec-2011 09:07, SONY DSC-W55, 2.8, 6.3mm, 0.025 sec, ISO 250

On Christmas Eve, myself, A2 and J went downtown to look at the Christmas lights. It was insane. With five million living in the Ho (as we call it), it seemed as if they were all out of their homes, and on the street. There were no cars, as swarms of people took over every nook and cranny of the city center and it’s neighboring streets. It was madness. The people were just congregated in masses. Many were standing up, in a still fashion, while others were sitting, as they do, on their motorbikes, loitering. Of course, then there were a bunch of people walking aimlessly in all directions, scattered about with motorbikes, bicycles, and a few cabs. An honest to goodness pedestrian cluster-cuss.

At one point, I looked about the cathedral. There were people rows deep just staring at it. It looked as if they were waiting for something amazing to happen. I paused. Was the statue of Mary going to come to life? Were they going to demo it? Shoot fireworks from it? Unveil something supernatural? Having lost interest, I moved on with the girls.

There were vendors everywhere, kids of all ages and all degrees of behavior as far as they eye could see. Glow sticks, balloons, street food, toys, Santa hats, you name it. It was being sold. There were scary skinny Santas all over the place, and even some frogs in costume. (Waiting on a copy of that picture). We saw communist army hats for sale, and tried to buy some of them, for propaganda humor, but the crowds pushed us farther away. (see vid below or on photos/picasa page)

Downtown Video3
Downtown Video3

We made our way from the Notre Dame cathedral, down Dong Khoi, and over to Nguyen Hue. Sadly, the decorations were pretty boring. Nationally, Christmas isn’t really celebrated here. Things are sort of half-assed for the foreigners who live here and the visiting tourists. I went to look around a few days before and saw so much prep work, I was excited, then it dawned on me, it was prep work for Tet, which is the Chinese new year, in a little less than a month. That is when the town goes nuts with decorations, celebrates locally for one day/night and then everyone disappears to other countries and the countryside to be with their older relatives. The Ho becomes a ghost town.

Downtown Christmas15
Downtown Christmas1520-Dec-2011 23:07, SONY DSC-W55, 2.8, 6.3mm, 0.003 sec, ISO 100

 

Soon, it was time to get the heck off the streets. A2 got maced in the eye with canned snow, my toes were stepped on far too many times, and the heat of the people, bikes, and the pushing to look at nothing had become too much. We took a quick look at the underwater pirate Christmas display at the tax center, laughed, and then trudged over to Sheridan’s Irish Pub.

We settled into the pub and ordered some ciders and Guinness to celebrate the holiday. A fan that I had adjusted a few minutes prior, self destructed and sent shards of its blade across the bar. It was hysterical and totally freaked all of us out. An hour later, I asked for some scrap paper from the bartender tender, and he gave me a sheet of pink paper. I wrote on one side. Apparently, he had given me someone’s tab. When I refused to give it back to him, as I had written all over it, the situation caused a minor scene of respectfully, distinctly, Asian confusion. The tab was for one beer, and giving it away to me, was the mistake of the bar tender. So as there are no computers involved, I suggested they write up a new slip to take its place. This idea was, apparently, out of this world in logic to them, and it kind of became obnoxious after they kept trying to get me to give my pink slip, full of the evenings Ho-notes, back to them throughout the evening.

Indoor Bobsled
Indoor Bobsled
 We left and decided to walk over to Blanche. On the way over J and I walked past some decorative outdoor displays with huge Christmas globes. Laughing, I just picked one up and danced with it, and then, naturally, without thinking, walked away with it. J looked back and said that two guards were walking behind us. Curious, we walked faster. So did they. Laughing at the idea, we ran a few blocks until we got lost in the crowds. We hid behind a building, and watched as they looked for us. The rent-a-guards eventually faced defeat and went back to their little posts. Not my finest moment.

The Christmas ball came with us to Blanche’s. We bought it a drink and danced with it. We went home at 2:30.

Run Around

Yikes, I’m way behind in updating information. I will have to be quick.

05-Feb-2010 17:52, SONY DSC-W530, 8.0, 4.7mm, 0.001 sec, ISO 400
 At some point, in November, A1 and I ran the Terry Fox Run for cancer. It was held in Phu Mi Hung. What a difference a cab ride to the other side of the city makes. It was like happy little suburbia over there. No traffic, lots of trees, larger homes, pedestrian walkways that were not covered in motorbikes. I will have to go back, for sure! The run was at 8am, but being Vietnam, it was already starting to get really hot. A1 and I had a bit of a difficult time at first, breaking though all of the walkers. It was a sea of banners, rollerbladers, and socializers. People, come on, we are here to run this. Eventually we broke away from the masses and were on our way. It was a simple 5k, but it was sooo hot and so busy that it felt like I was running through the streets of the city after all. We passed by a few of our kids, which was fun, and our fellow gym teacher, R, took our picture at the end of the race. After we had some water and walked it off, we hopped in a cab, showered, had lunch, and grabbed a massage. Nice day.

Happy Birthday Asmaa
Happy Birthday Asmaa12-Nov-2011 10:55, SONY DSC-W230, 2.8, 5.35mm, 0.033 sec, ISO 200
 Also in November, we celebrated A2’s birthday at Chill Sky Bar. The service was poor, the food was overpriced and meager, and the wine, uh oh, the wine was not good. We went to a few other places afterwards, and though the venues were a little sub par, as always, the company was grand.

Thanksgiving was a minor disaster. It moved houses a few times, got cancelled twice, and ended up being something small. Aside from H and I who brought some of our own food, the rest of the crew ordered food from a restaurant. For some reason, turkey is impossible to get here, and is really expensive, as you have to order it from hotels. But let me tell you, the turkey-eating girls were in heaven. It was simple, humorous, and again, in good company. Someone has a picture of it floating around.

I’m in the middle of my Christmas break, and it’s quiet, unplanned, and so, glorious. It’s the introverted vacation that I’ve needed for a while.

Calendar

My traveling scheduled has changed since last I posted it. Basically, due to the fact that, and I say this lovingly, six girls, all with very different personalities, can not always travel harmoniously. So, I have withdrawn myself from most of the previously noted trips. Also, as the Ho can really get to a person, I long for peace and sanity. for me, this is usually best found alone.

Christmas break (12/17-01/04) will be spent alone. Most of my friends will be away, anyhow. I’m sure I could stay M’s empty home in Phnom Penh as they will be in the states, but, I’m just going to lay low and do all the things I have been meaning to do. You know, back up my hard drive, organize my music, write in my journal, blog, write letters, check out corners of the city. All will be intertwined with the few small plans I have made: watch a bunch of recently “purchased” movies, cook lots of new meals, attend my favorite yoga class three times a week, go for runs outside as its finally cool, and other excitedly hum-drum things.

Tet (01/23-01-27) is still up in the air. The little island in the Philippines is still an option. Though, I think I might go to northern’ish Cambodia and check out Angkor Wat.

April break (04/02-04/13) will probably still be spent going up the coast of Vietnam. It is the best time of the year for the northern part of the country, and I intend to stop by: Phan Thiet, Nha Trang, Da Nang, Hue, and then ending at Halong Bay. Should be fun. China beach is supposed to be amazing…well, all of those places are supposed to be.

School ends on Wednesday, June 13th. I will be in Bangkok from June 14-15, with an evening flight back to Saigon. I then intend to fly to Portland on June 16.

Summer plans? Might skittle over to Seattle for a day or two, and hit up the other Portland for a few days as well. Oh, I’ve also got a mini vacation planned with B only, for one week in the summer. That’s it, though. I was jet setting all over the place last summer. I want to just relax with my friends and family as much as possible this summer. Who knows what the fall of 2012 will bring.

Skeeze

Our new Head of School was offered a contract for next year against every possible reason not to, including: a criminal record, letters and documentations of extreme concerns from prior employers that were sent to a few of us, a phone call from his past school to our owner telling him that this man will ruin our school and run it into the ground, and a slew of scathing emails and personal meetings with He and our current staff. I wish to never talk about this sad, sad, mess again, though. I have a very difficult time working for people that I don’t respect personally or professionally. Thank goodness for the good guys – I love the kids and my fellow teachers.

Hollow

29-Oct-2011 15:45, Apple iPad 2, 2.4, 3.85mm, 0.067 sec, ISO 1600
 Of 10.31.2011

So, after an intensive girl holiday that left most of us a little on overload, we all strangely decided, the night following our return, to go out for Halloween. Last minute costumes were made, and though this country doesn’t celebrate, let alone, like, this holiday, we decided to see what was going on downtown. Nothing was. We hopped around to, oh, I dunno, five places or so, in less than 5 hours time, and were sorely disappointed at each. Not only were places anti-Halloween, but it seemed as though the city was totally uninterested in even being out. Oh well, we looked cute.

A2 and K were school girls, H was a Geisha, I was Athena Nike and A1 was Aphrodite.

To make things more interesting in an otherwise drab night, myself and A1 made our own heavenly demi-goddess rules. They were both logical and hysterical. A1 instructed that we never look directly at a mortal or their cameras., for example. We would often pause to contemplate, with a sigh, how being on earth, if only temporarily, was a bit of a bore, and that the mortals were not as thankful as they should be. When we got into a little trouble, we spoke quietly about how Daddy Zeus would be mad at us. After a few places, and a few drinks, we concluded that though Aphrodite was the older sister, and thus wiser and with more responsibility, she actually got into more trouble due to those facts. Being the younger one, I could blame my misbehavior on naivety. When we got in the cab to go back to our mortal dwelling, we decided that it would only be fair that I would be the one to smooth things over with Zeus.

Arriving at my apartment earlier than later, I gladly took all of my safety pins out,  unwrapped myself from yards of white fabric, washed off most of the gold glitter, and crashed.

Mashin’ up di Traffic Jam

So, going to work usually takes 20 minutes. This morning, it took nearly two hours. The five of us who share a cab, missed our morning classes. The article below, and the fact that there was no one directing the affected rush hour, in light of this massive construction, was the reason.

After redirecting ourselves twice, we sat in the same place, less than a mile away from school, for nearly 50 minutes. H nearly peed her pants, J had to deal with her coffee jitters in a seated position, A2 began to eat her lunch, A1 broke into a dead-on Jamaican accent as she and I sang Cocody Rock. It was amusing….for a little while, anyhow.

It was as if we were all exiled out of district one. In herds, people were readjusting their route, getting off bikes, onto the back of other bikes, getting out of cabs, going on foot, turning around, going in the opposing lane the wrong way…doing whatever it took to make headway. Regardless, no headway was to be had. We five just sat, in our little bubble-shell of a cab, watching it all through our windows.

As I am determined to ease into my morning workdays, despite the crazy city I live in, this was all a bit excessive, to say the least.

The decree was put in place however, that we all stay in the cab; no one leaves. Eventually agitated, and contemplating anarchy, I suggested that we all get out and walk. This was not well-received the first few times. J, you mustn’t forget the creedo. However, after 50 minutes in the same place, we all got out. Creedon’t was now the better choice.

Weaving though all sorts of mud and vehicles, in what was, the worst cluster-cuss I have seen thus far in hcmc, we walked through an intersection. Leading, I felt no insult to push in car mirrors, and tilt stalled motorbike handles to get by. We literally had to high step over bicycles, cars, and motos that were all jammed in every direction, bumper to bumper, on sidewalks and every possible flat surface, in the chaos. Eventually through the intersection, we hopped in a random cab, again, and went around the block to school.

Period one begins at 8am. We strolled in around 9:30. Oops. Luckily, some of our (much more local) teachers gathered our students, and a few of the school busses were behind us in the traffic. What a mess. The good news? No one cared, it just happens. The bad news? This might be our morning commute for quite some time.

I mean, you can’t even imagine the traffic idiocy that occurs here on a regular basis. This mess due to poor planning, or rather, none at all, was something even beyond that. Truly, the morning traffic jam breathed with so much ill-logic that it was its own entity.

http://www.tuoitrenews.vn/cmlink/tuoitrenews/society/southeast-asia-s-largest-tunnel-open-to-traffic-1.51898